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Introducing the New & Improved i-Bot 2.0

The i-Bot has been totally revamped. New brain, new camera (same operator). Now the i-Bot is capable of taking 360 degree videos and photos to be added to your crawlspace reports.  Have you got interesting sounds or smells coming out from under your home? Call me now and we’ll get your crawlspace inspection scheduled.

The new and improved i-Bot with 360 camera

Air Conditioner Filters – Penny Wise & Dollar Foolish

AC systems are designed to run with filters, but filters come in several grades.


If we really wanted to cool the home down quickly, we would use no filter at all, but then we’d have dust collecting on the evaporator coil and in the ducts.  Both of which are very expensive to have cleaned. If we didn’t ever want dust in the evaporator coil or in the ducts, we’d put a piece of plywood in the filter slot. But, now we cannot move any cool air out of the system and into the home. Your AC filter is somewhere between nothing and a sheet of plywood.

Cheap fiberglass filters (MERV 5 or less at $1 or $2 each) are very close to the “use no filter” example above. If you can see through them, they won’t do much. They do not stop much in the way of dust, hair, molds or pollens.  Most of that is going to end up in the system and have to be cleaned by a service technician. Cheap filters equals expensive maintenance. Washable filters tend to fall into this category as well.


Expensive allergy rated filters (MERV 10 and up at $10 to $40 each) are close to the “sheet of plywood” example. Yes, they trap mold and pollen, but they plug up quickly. Once they are plugged up, the system has to work much harder to move air through them.  When the AC system cannot move air like it was designed, the house does not cool as well and the system runs longer ($$). If you leave these in too long, you’ll actually see a good AC system physically deform the filter. It will come out all bowed up in the middle.  In Florida, most of this class of filter are full within a week, depending on the time of the year.  Very expensive to use, and actually hurts the performance of the AC system.


Most systems are designed to run with MERV 8 filters. These are the “middle of the road” filters. They are pleated paper and reinforced, generally in a cardboard frame. Typical prices are from $5 to $7 each.  I get mine in packs of 3, but there are also websites that you can order a dozen at time or others will send you a new one every month. Filters should be changed monthly. Don’t believe the “90 days” label. This is Florida and we are sub-tropical, meaning we have more stuff in our air than most other places. Change your filter monthly. Some do it on the 1st of the month, other change the filter when they get the electric bill.  It does not matter, when, just get a system and use it.


MERV 8 is the industry standard, but other filter manufacturers use different standards to measure their filter’s effectiveness.


8 1000 7/Red Dust, Pollen, Mold, Dust Mites, Lint, Bacteria
10 1900 9/ Purple Above +  Pet Dander
13 2200 10/Black Above + Virus Carrier, Odors, and Smoke, 


Roof Drains Done Wrong

One roof should never drain onto another roof. This will shorten the life of your shingles where the upper roof dumps water onto the lower roof.  Take this new home for example. The upper roof had gutters installed, but they dumped the downspouts onto the lower roof.  This took all of the water from the upper roof surface and concentrated it into a 4 inch wide pipe. Shingles were never designed to handle water volumes like that.

To make matters worse, at the other end of the home, the downspout flows water across the shingles. Shingles are not designed to be waterproof, but to shed water. Flowing large amounts of water sideways across the roof surface is inviting water to get under the shingles. Once that happens, it is not long before a leak will occur.

This was not a small home, but a large 5 bedroom home in a new subdivision.  I’ll say it again, if you are purchasing a home, new or old, you need a Licensed Home Inspector to go over the home with you.  It can save you much more than the cost of the inspection. Contact i-Inspect today for your home inspection needs.





Citizen’s Four-Point Inspections: New Form, New Price

Citizen’s has come out with a revised Four-Point Inspection form. Insurance agents are supposed to only accept this form as of September 1, 2018.  In order for our client’s to have this form by that time, we will begin using the new form July 1, 2018. This gives 60 days for anyone to close and have the new form on hand.

The new forms asks for much more information than the previous form. In addition to everything the old form asked for, inspectors are now required to test most of your household appliances for a four-point inspection, report any visible signs of leaks on the ceilings or in the attic, take photos of each slope of the roof and each side of the home. Due to the increase in time to gather information and the increase in time to report the information, the price of this form must increase as well.


Purchasing a New Home and Why You Need a Realtor and a Home Inspector

You drive into a brand new subdivision that XYZ Homes is building.  There is construction going on all over the place and you fall in love with one of the models.  Next stop is the sales office. There you meet a very nice salesperson that would love to help you purchase a brand new home. STOP!

That sales agent is a realtor.  A realtor that works on commissions from sales of these new XYZ Homes.  If you put yourself under contract today, you have just handed that realtor the golden ticket, that is they get both commissions for the home: the buyer’s (yours) and the seller’s (XYZ Homes).  That person is now working for you and for XYZ Homes.  In the event of an issue (and there will be issues), who is that realtor really representing? (Hint: you represent one sale. XYZ Homes represents several dozen sales.)

Do yourself a favor and get your own realtor to represent you.  In the event of a dispute or issue, your realtor is your advocate and will negotiate on your behalf.

Secondly, get a home inspector that is familiar with new construction to watch your house while it is being built.  Typically, this is done in phases over the construction process with reports at each phase.  Normal phases can include: Footer, slab, lintel, frame or pre-sheetrock, and final. These phases represent major milestones in the home’s building process.

The sooner you get your inspector on board, the better your home inspector can watch out for you as your home is built. Don’t rely on the builder or the code inspector to look out for you.  The code inspector (city or county depending on where your home is built) only has a certain list of things that they are concerned with checking. The code inspector often has between 20 and 50 homes to inspect PER DAY.  How much time is that person spending on your home?

And the builder’s standard commnet is “It passed code.” That is like saying you passed high school with straight “D”s.  Code is the bare minimum standard, not the best standard.

Most builders are only concerned with how many homes they close this quarter. Honestly, if they are a production home builder, their biggest concern is cost.  If they can save $100 on 1000 homes, someone gets a great end-of-year bonus. Their subcontractors (all of the trades) are often chosen on the cheapest price.  They have bid the work cheap and now have to figure out how to make a profit when there is very little profit margin.